The Photography of Dr. Jeffrey P. Harper

My friend John Stiles and I took a day off work on a week day and drove north out of Bangkok early in the morning in search of the famous Lopburi sunflower fields . . . they were suppose to be coming into bloom this time of year (November 2017).

 

Just an easy 1 1/2 hour drive up a divided highway to Lopburi.

 

We began the day before first light, so when we came across this roadside restaurant on a pond, so we stopped.

 

We enjoyed some good coffee (they had a grand Italian coffee-making machine!) and dry honey toast with pork floss.

 

There was a dried fish stand setting up outside the restaurant when we arrived.  Very photogenic.  We would see a lot of dried fish throughout the day.

 

Small dried 'sprats' . . . my favorite.

 

The fish hawker and his beautifully arranged fish.

 

The colors and arrangement oft these dried fish were captivating.

 

Good in soups and salads.

 

A heap of dried fish heads . . . for making fish head soup!

 

There were also some fresh fish for sale as well.

 

Drying fish on the round baskets.

 

These are rice treats with either fish, beans, or sweets wrapped in leaves.  We didn't buy any fish or rice treats . . . and headed up the rural road toward Lopburi.

 

We left Bangkok (Minburi) around 6:30 am, loaded a general Lopburi address into the GPS, and headed up the big highway for the hour and a half drive.  When we got a few miles outside of Lopburi, we left the highway for the small roads . . . and found several wonderful small Buddhist Wats.

 

Right off a small road to Lopburi we found an ancient Wat . . . with a beautiful spirit house.

 

Monks quarters.

 

I enjoy walking around old Wats just to see what can be seen.  Here, a still life portrait of items arranged in the  space of a monks house porch.  I love the makeshift, slapped together feel of the shoe box . . . no concern for aesthetic geometry . . . yet beauty was achieved.

 

In front of a meditation hall. The crematorium can be seen at far right  . . . the monks were consulting with contractors about repairs needed to the crematorium.

 

An alcove for a magnificent Buddha image.

 

I found the steering wheel on this ceremonial cart interesting.

 

I love old unattended things.  This ceremonial cart sitting beside a klong was a thing of beauty (to me).

 

The old ceremonial cart by the klong.

 

The old wooden Wats have so many beautiful scenes to photograph.

 

The old Wat held a beautiful black Buddha.  I am always interested in the devotional markings pilgrims have left behind.

 

The pattern of the gold leaf applications is fantastic.

 

 

 

We saw only a few monks out and about.  This monk stepped out for a cigarette. I asked if I could photograph him and he nodded OK.

 

Around he back of the monk's quarters . . . rural Wats are sometimes disheveled like this.  The monks are not there to garden, and the local people who support the Wat are busy working hard to stay alive.

 

The old surfaces of the ancient monks' quarters had a marvelous patina.

 

Monk and water urns.

 

A powerful Buddha image.

 

I looked one last time at my final destination . . .

 

The practical side of Wat life.  We left this wat and drove down a tiny rural farm road until we came to . . .

 

Just around the corner . . . a colossal Buddha image under construction.  10 stories tall with two workers crawling all over it.

 

Sculpting the Buddha's head way up on bamboo scaffolding.

 

In a lot just in front of the giant Buddha under construction were these racks being filled with fish to be dried.

 

Fish spreaders . . .

 

Another 500 meters walk up the country lane and we encountered another, bigger fish drying operation . . . and the same two guys spreading fish!

 

They were drying a variety of fish on bamboo racks.

 

Some of the drying fish had been split and skinned.

 

Some of the drying fish had been gutted and beheaded.  There was a lot of drying fish here.

 

John asked one of the fish spreaders where the fish came from, since we were a couple hundred kilometers from the sea.  They said it was all imported from Cambodia fresh every day.

 

I'm afraid we made this guy a little selfconsious with all the photography  . . . DAMN TOURISTS!

 

I took way too many photographs of these incredible fish patterns . . . .

 

Very strange things to see out in the Thai countryside.  We left the drying fish behind and went looking for the sunflower fields.

 

We eventually found a field that was just coming into flower.

 

We first explored a little patch up a dirt path . . . away from another field that had quite a few other sunflower pilgrims.

 

New sunflowers budding are fantastically interesting things.

 

The sun was hiding behind the clouds, but that might have made the photography better . . . .

 

Beautiful sunflowers . . . they make you happy.

 

A beautiful place to be on a Monday afternoon . . .

 

We passed by a field that had yet to flower.  John, from Iowa and, like all people from Iowa, was an expert on sunflowers.  He said that sunflowers have an 'internal clock' -- in other words, sunflowers planted a week after other sunflowers, will bloom one week later.

 

An ice cream hawker found his way to here the Thai tourists were  . . . as we had.

 

John bought an ice cream sandwich . . . literally, a slab of ice cream in between slices of bread.  The hawker consented to this photograph.

 

We found a larger field of blooms.

 

This is more like it.

 

We were not alone, of course.  Sunflower fields attract people like moths to a flame.

 

A gorgeous place to find a sunflower field . . . below the sharp hills with a Buddhist temple perched high up on a rise.

 

The light was starting to fade as we headed out of the beautiful fields . . .  we had a hilltop Buddha image to get to.

 

Rows and rows of sunflowers popping in and out of the sunlight.

 

This sweet, and nutty, couple were selling freshly salted and roasted sunflower seeds. I bought a kilo (they were delicious).

 

And off we went to find the hillside Buddha.

 

This MUST be the road!

 

Yes, all the roads I have ever taken have led me to this place . . . the highway to hell!

 

The Peacock Temple was . . . .  very interesting, that is for sure.

 

Chedis . . . and the snake-railed steps up to the big Buddha on the hill.

 

I love these rural Wats . . . in nature and not overly tended.

 

And so we started the climb up the temple stairs . . .

 

And up and up we went.  The stairs were numbered, so we didn't have to count them ourselves.  However, we did not know how many total steps there were going to be!

 

 

The walk to the top (436 steps in all) was well worth it . . . the view across the Thai landscape was remarkable!

 

The Peacock Temple below.

 

What we came to see: a giant Buddha image.  Very beautiful.

 

There were several altars in and around the top of the climb . . . as well as some tunnels that went inside the mountain . . . we didn't explore these.

 

4:00pm at the top of a hill enjoying the view and the various altars.

 

After 30 minutes on the top of the hill, we made our way back down the dry leaf covered 436 steps.

 

At last . . . the bottom in sight.  And then into the car and off to a Wat we could see from the hilltop Buddha.

 

We arrived at a temple hosting a meditation retreat just at the moment they bikkus were in meditation. 

 

Such a beautifully spiritual place.  We were at first reluctant to take photographs until a Wat attendant came over and indicated that it was OK for us to use our cameras.  We took full advantage.

 

These Buddhist 'nuns' were in colored robes normally associated with Tibetan Buddhists.

 

We did our best not to disturb the meditating nuns and monks.  Here, a photo during their break.  Monks on one side, nuns on the other.

 

An elderly nun.

 

I felt that this was a meditation center I would enjoy attending.

 

A beautiful 'sala' . . . one assumes it is used in case of heavy rain during meditation times.

 

The Wat seemed very prosperous, with new structures under construction.

 

After the meditation stopped, John and I walked around the Wat grounds.

 

The main Wat structure.

 

Fantastic design and excellent workmanship.

 

This 'Thai Angel' was outside the front entrance to the large Wat . . . and very unusual to see with a baby, almost in a Virgin Mary pose.  Is this the baby Buddha Gotama?  I do not know.

 

We walked around all sides of the Wat main structure.

 

A Thai Wat in the fading light.

 

Nearly last light.

 

One last look around the ground gardens.

 

We passed a lotus hawker on the way to our car . . . and drove home in the dark: another satisfying and inspirational day out in the world.

We drove north from our home about 30 minutes to a beautiful riverside restaurant, Baan Ta Nid.  The restaurant is rather hidden on a tiny lane next to this small Chinese temple and a pier for a ferry that does not operate any more.

 

A sweet little altar . . .

 

This temple had these 'fortune' sheets.  You roll a die and then choose the corresponding fortune.

 

Although I did leave a small donation, I did not roll the die and choose a fortune.  Just looking at these two examples, I'm sure glad I didn't roll a 8 . . . the 9 isn't all that bad though.  Imagine basing your life decisions on these!

 

A very red house next to the pier.

 

The lane to the ferry pier . . . honoring the departed King.

 

This is Baan Ta Nid . . . you really have to look to find this wonderful place.

 

Here we are . . . come on in.

 

You enter the old wooden Thai-style river house through an open kitchen/lobby.

 

Wonderful patina on the floor and ceiling planking.

 

View from the kitchen window out into an older Thai world.

 

You proceed along wooden planking through an old fashioned Thai house.

 

The restaurant is through this hall, out back on a pier over the Chao Phraya River.

 

Baan Ta Nid is also a small 'guest house' with a few small rooms.  This old space serves as the guest lounge.

 

Such a charming place to relax.

 

Another lounge and the outside . . .

 

A second lounge in the old river house.  Thai-style living from early last century.  The proprietress said the house was 90 years old.

 

A table set for a party of 10 (turned out to be an old Thai rock star and his family).

 

Many small nooks here and there to sit and enjoy the day.

 

The dining area on a dock over the river among old Thai village houses.  Very sweet.

 

A pleasant place for lunch . . . out of the city . . . and into the past.

 

A private dining sala out over the river.

 

The food was delicious, beautifully prepared and presented . . . and photogenic, as can be seen!

 

A little 1/4 inch paint and this could be liveable again . . . I still harbour the desire to live on the river . . . or any river.

 

The view from an upstairs window: this is Old Thailand . . . just 30 minutes up the river.

 

One last photo.  A still life of Old Thailand.

Although the city/region of Chachoengsao is not far from Bangkok, I had never visited this part of Thailand in the 20+ years I have lived here.

 

PART ONE: A RURAL ANCIENT MARKET

Our first stop, based on a roadside sign, was to the Chachoengsao Ancient Market.

 

The market is on a klong system which has many old houses alongside.

 

This very photogenic fisherman and his dog appeared as if from nowhere . . .

 

My friend John Stiles went with me on this ramble . . . and took this photo of me enjoying myself and my new Fuji X-T2 camera.

 

82 years old and a regular betel-nut user . . . she was very glad to chat with us while she visited her friend next door.

 

Next door was the old woman's 'home' -- a hovel along the klong.  Abject poverty.

 

The market is opened only on week-ends, but we were there on a Monday, and glad of it.  The old wooden structures built on stilts over the klong made a picturesque environment.

 

Lanterns from last years' Chinese New Years still festooned the old market.

 

A klong boatman, Chachoengsao.

 

The old market looked like it had seen better days: here an old stage for ceremonies and performances.

 

Although the market was closed, some of the vendors live permanently at the site.  This man sold lunch to the local residents.

 

Taking an order.

 

Life along the klong . . . at lunchtime.

 

A fisherman and his dog.  We did not see him catch any fish . . . he said there weren't very many to catch, when asked.

 

The old weathered wood and sharp light made for some nice 'minimalist' photos.

 

Light, shadow, texture . . . a bridge.

 

There was some aquaculture along the klongs . . . frog farming.

 

And, as always, the ubiquitous spirit houses.

 

The doors of the closed market shops were in themselves things of beauty.

 

We walked around for several hours finding an endless number of interesting things to photograph.

 

Sun behind a lantern.

 

Signs of coordinated development: the market was lined with these very attractive street lights.

 

I bought a leather pouch for my sunglasses and the seller put my name on it with these old tools.

 

A wall in the leather shop with framed photos of the owner's wife's parents.  Very touching.

 

The leathergoods shop had these for sale, but I could not figure out what they were for.

 

There were a number of empty, abandoned houses.

 

A lovely morning spent along the old klongs of rural Thailand.

 

I could have stayed all day in this peaceful place . . but we moved on up the road.

 

PART TWO: A RURAL WAT

We set the GPS to the town and headed up the road . . . and missed our turn and instead discovered this wonderful Wat.

 

This Wat was a long way from any village or town . . . a very peaceful place.

 

The Wat was at the beginning phase of erecting a colossal Buddha image.  It was interesting to see the rebar mesh getting ready to be plastered.

 

A beautiful rural wat under a giant sky.  We are all so small in the scheme of things . . . if there is a scheme.

 

PART THREE: A CHACHOENGSAO NEIGBORHOOD WAT

We got a little lost in the small lanes the GPS decided to send us on . . . until we spotted a giant Buddha up between the trees . . and followed an ally to where we thought it might be . . . it wasn't the 'right' Wat, but it was very interesting in its own right.

 

It was an interesting old wat that backed up to a klong . . . a klong that separated us from the giant Buddha we spotted from the road.  We decided to walk and see if there was a bridge . . .

 

Our walk took us through a cemetery next door to a school.

 

The school kids found us very interesting.

 

My first thought was . . . this is what happens if you let your granddaughter choose your crypt color . . . you get a pink crypt!

 

I asked John if he thought someone had busted into these crypts . . . or busted out?  He said he didn't want to think about that.

 

I speculated that a family had gone 'upscale' with their ancestor burials . . . meaning they came into some money, or moved from the area, and wanted to move the Dearly Departed to a new grave site.  I hope I'm right.

 

We didn't find a bridge over to the giant Buddha, but we did find some beautiful scenes.

 

There was no way through the swamp to the other side.

 

So, John and I decided to get in my truck and see if we couldn't find the giant Buddha.

 

PART FOUR: CHINESE CULTURAL CENTER

At last!  We found the Chinese Cultural Center . . . just opened last year . . . and brand spanking new.  Beautiful!

 

We paid a small donation and a guide took us around to the various altars and showed us the ropes.

 

Gorgeous colossal statuary.

 

I was especially excited about this temple because I am a follower and admirer of my old buddy Ji Gong, the idiosyncratic Chinese monk who was a defender of the weak against injustice.

 

Ji Gong, my old buddy. (Ask me why I always say 'my old buddy' when I mention Ji Gong next time we meet.)

 

My old buddy, Ji Gong.

 

I went into the Ji Gong shrine at the base of the giant statue and paid my respects.

 

Showing respect to my old buddy, Ji Gong.

 

The guide showing John the proper ceremonial details.

 

I go to many Chinese religious temples in Bangkok, but this was not an old temple as I as used to . . . it was brand new!

 

Fascinating images inside the shrines.

 

Temple Buddhas.

 

The back of a temple Buddha.  John and I placed a square of gold onto several Buddhas here . . . they were included in the cost of the donation.

 

After showing respect at the shrines, our guide instructed us to ring the big bell . . .

 

. . . and bang the big drum, each three times.  We duly complied.

 

After we completed the proper ceremonies at the giant statues, they gave us some free ice water and said we were free to explore the temple buildings on our own.

 

And my-o-my!  The temple interiors were fantastical.  Enjoy the following photos!

 

After wandering around for some time in these fantastic temple interiors we both realized we were hungry and decided to head into the old Chinese quarter of Chachoengsao along the river.

 

I paid my last respects to my old buddy Ji Gong and we were on our way again.

 

PART FIVE: THE OLD CHINESE QUARTER OF CHACHOENGSAO

We drove into the old Chinese quarter and looked for a place to park.  The architecture reminds me a lot of Penang, Malaysia.

 

My current old school 'muscle car' project in mid-modification (V8, shortened, narrowed chassis, tubbed, big-braked, and custom-painted) on the streets of Chachoengsao.

 

We found a nice noodle shop for our first course . . . .

 

After a quick snack, we headed out on a walk around this fascinating old town.  Here, the 100+ year old town market.

 

The old city market interior . . . still in use.

 

There were just too may photographic subjects to cover . .  we were just a couple street shooters snapping on the run.

 

The light in the old market spaces was marvelous.

 

At some point in the past these old shops must have been very successful, being located next to the town market.

 

The oldest shops in the city.

 

Some of these old shops are still in use by traders.

 

We stopped for fresh fruit juice smoothies.  I had a carrot and apple one.

 

There is a growing obesity problem in Thailand (pun intended).  It's no wonder . . . look at the chip and snack wholesaler's shop.

 

These well-worn shop doors were things of beauty.

 

The shopkeepers here told us that this shop had been operated by their family for over 100 years.

 

We stopped in at this riverfront restaurant for a full Thai meal that couldn't be beat. Ate way too much, but was happy.

 

Your intrepid photographer out and about . . . and getting ready to have a wonderful meal.

 

Before our meal arrived, I took the liberty to look around the old atmospheric wooden building.

 

The restaurant interior was amazing . . . and very artfully done.

 

An interior wall at the restaurant.

 

The view from our diner table!

 

After our big late lunch we went out walking again . . . what did we see? More food!

 

The vendors were all busy getting ready for the evening rush.

 

We asked this shopkeeper how long he had been sitting there . . . he said, "62 years."

 

Tai street food is delicious . . . but we were already too full.

 

We walked around a working town . . . an iceman packing his product with help.

 

An old shop house in the city center of Chachoengsao, Thailand.

 

Chachoengsao riverfront.

 

Such a beautiful place . . . but time to leave this part of town . .  we still have a famous Wat and Buddha to see.

 

PART SIX: Wat Sathorn Wararam Worawihan

Wat Sothonwararam is located near the river in another part of Chachoengsao.  It is one of the most famous Buddhist temples in the world, and is also possibly the largest Buddhist temple in the world.  The temple has the ‘Luangpho Phuttha Sothon,’ the revered Buddha image.

 

One of the most beautiful, and unique Buddhist Wats I have seen in Thailand.

 

Many golden salas surround the Wat.

 

The Wat is under royal patronage.  Here: a photo of the new King of Thailand.

 

We had come to see the famous Buddha likeness inside, but, alas, we were too late . . . it closed at 5:00pm.  What to do now?  Let's go see some bats!

 

PART SEVEN: A BAT TEMPLE

John read online that there was a Buddhist temple on the way back to Bangkok that had a mass flight of fruit bats from it's trees every evening and if we hurried we could see it.  So we went on some very small rural roads and arrived just as it turned dark.  A beautiful Wat . . . I took photos of the Buddhas first.

 

Very old and revered Buddha images.

 

More revered Buddha images at the bat Wat.

 

The trees were hung with hundreds of very large fruit bats!

 

The bats flew around so fast, and it was getting so dark, that it was almost impossible to photograph them . . . but I managed this one shot I like.

John and I had a wonderful day trip out of Bangkok.  We left at 6:30am and returned to Bangkok at 8:30pm.  What a day!

My friend John and I decided to go out photo rambling in Bangkok and end up at the Saxophone Pub, our favorite music venue.  I took a look at GoogleMaps to see what was in walking and saw the Phaya Thai Palace and Throne Room. What are those?  Only a 10 minute walk.  Let's go see.

 

It was a beautiful, not too oppressively hot, late afternoon at Victory Monument when we arrived.

 

We walked along a broad busy avenue, lined with street vendors of all kinds.

 

When I say 'all kinds of street vendors' I mean all kinds.

 

We arrived at the Throne Hall and were surprised by a sweet, turn-of-the-last-century carpentry treasure of a building: The Throne Hall.

 

A closer view yielded a strange light from within the Throne Hall!

 

It seems we had arrived only hours before what looked like a fashion show was to begin.  There was furious activity by a crew to get the show ready for that evening . . . testing the lights and count.

 

Such a beautiful space.

 

The chairs were all lined up ready for the evening's affair . . . whatever it was going to be.

 

There was a beautiful old cafe, The Cafe de Norasingha, built in 1912 and has remained exactly as it was then.  A bit of old Viena right in Bangkok.

 

Located behind the Throne Hall and cafe was the old Phaya Thai Palace, the 'country' home of the Thai King, Rama VI.

 

The old palace has had several lives since Rama VI, including military barracks, and a hospital, although we could not tell if it was still a hospital or not as there was no sign of life about.

 

We wandered around the empty interior of the old palace and were amazed by the light, color, and shadow.

 

Classical European statuary could be found throughout the palace and gardens, a popular decoration at the time.

 

Over 100 years old and still beautiful.

 

There were several wonderful stairwells.

 

There was a beautiful cottage on a klong (canal) in the rear of the palace.

 

While out back photographing this beautiful cottage, I saw something move near my feet . . . .

 

Oh My! A four foot Asian water lizard!

 

The sun goes down fast in the tropics, and the moods inside the old Rama VI Palace changed too.

 

I have to say it got a little spooky in there . . . . with nobody around.

 

As it grew darker outside, the light through the windows cast wonderful light into the interior.

 

The old marble floors glowed with colorful reflections in the gloom.

 

A few lights were turned on in the passageways between the building making for wonderful geometric photos.

 

Amber lighting on the old royal doors . . .

 

We were getting thirsty and hungry, so we left the Palace and Throne hall in the last of the blue light.

 

View of the Throne Hall (foreground) and Phaya Thai Palace (behind) at night.

 

We walked back along Ratchawithi Road toward Saxophone Pub, enjoying the photographic opportunities offered by the night food hawkers.

 

A tourist or perhaps a local expat buying hot corn from a street vendor.

 

Arriving at the Saxophone Jazz and Blues Pub, Victory Monument, Bangkok, Thailand.

I love having friends and family visit us here in Scotland . . . we get to take them around the country and share good times together.  I also get to take my camera and shoot some pics.  We headed south out of Aberdeen for a little time in Edinburgh first.

 

The Royal Mile is always the first stop in Edinburgh.  Although it is touristic, it is also stunningly beautiful.

 

The Scottish Parliament sits astride the Royal Mile.

 

The philosopher Hume called Edinburgh home, as does this bonny lass busking with her pipes.

 

The Royal Mile leads up to Edinburgh Castle.  I loved this old cafe truck.

 

I bought a cafe latte here . . . of course.

 

Edinburgh Castle dominates the city skyline . . . and is absolutely fantastic.

 

The Edinburgh Castle drawbridge and gate.  There has been a castle on this location since at least the 2nd century AD, although there have been many rebuilds and additions since then.

 

Once inside the castle walls, an ancient world unfolds.

 

Edinburgh Castle is a 'living' castle: these offices are in current use by the Royal Family for administrative purposes.

 

Inside the castle walls.

 

I love that the Scottish National Trust has young men circulating in period WWI military dress . . . a reminder of wars gone by . . . and the human toll.

 

Of curse, the castle is a defensive position and is ringed with canon emplacements.

 

The gun emplacements had the best views of Edinburgh.

 

Looks dangerous.

 

It's always good to have the high ground in a siege.

 

There are wonderful views of Edinburgh city from the castle ramparts.

 

A small chapel within the castle walls.

 

We were at the castle as soon as it opened in the morning . . . to get the best photo opportunities, but it quickly filled up with tourists.  Here, an inner courtyard outside the grand hall.

 

Inside the magnificent grand hall!

 

A sumptuous castle interior.

 

We enjoyed several days of sightseeing in Edinburgh, but the call of The Highlands and more historic sites beckoned.

 

From Edinburgh we headed northwest and to ancient town of Dunfermline, which served as the royal capitol of Scotland until the 17th century.  Here we have the ruins of the 11th century Dunfermline Palace.

 

Dunfermline Palace ruins.

 

Adjacent to the palace ruins sits the intact Dunfermline Abbey (c. 1128).  A perfect October day in Scotland!

 

The immense ancient Dunfermline Abbey. 

 

The interior view of the old section of Dunfermline Abbey.

 

Beautiful vaulted ceilings.

 

 A working mill near Pitlochry.

 

We actually bought 'heretage' stone ground organic flour from the mill . . . it makes the BEST pan cakes!

 

A stunning scene.