The Photography of Dr. Jeffrey P. Harper

I work as a director and professor at a Thai public university.  On most days I take an express boat 40 minutes to and from my office on the Chao Phraya River . . . but due to the COVID-19 virus, I am now working from home as my university has closed the campus.

After a short public bus ride, I catch this Chao Phraya River Express Boat (green flag) for the 40 minute ride down the fascinating and picturesque river to my office.

These are the docks where I catch my commuter boat. Pakkret Pier.

I am not the only person out on my morning commute and rounds . . . .

Many long-tail river taxi boats lined up taking merchants back to their small businesses after visiting the morning wet market.

I join in a mass movement of people on their way to work along, on, and across the Chao Phraya River. Here a 3 baht ferry.

The journey down river begins by passing through a narrow 'cut' canal in the river that passes a beautiful, and sacred, tilted chedi on the point of Koh Kret (island) at Wat Poramai Yikawat.

Facing Koh Kret is the magnificent Wat Sanam Nuea and a ferry terminal . . . the main way to get to the island.

There is a continuous line of houses up on stilts along the Koh Kret cut. This is what my daily mundane life looks like . . . my supramundane.

I know these houses by heart . . . I 'study' them every morning in the calm serenity and languid humidity of the tropical morning.

My express boat rattles some, and its old diesel engine chugs along in a rhythmic manner . . . but it's cadences are broken when a long-tail boat, a kind of hot rod river taxi,  roars past.  What a way to get to school or market!

When I moved to Thailand 23 years ago I spent a good deal of time for two years trying to find one of these river houses to rent . . . and never could find one.

Every morning I have been watching this new construction of a traditional Thai-style house going up on the island side of the canal. Beautiful.  I want to live here.

I can see myself sitting on one of these porches watching the boats go by . . . but this dream is not to be.

There is a charming mixture of houses along the canal: a traditional restaurent beside a stick and stucco modern house.

All along the canal small ferries offer a 'short cut' off the island.

On most mornings these small ferries are full of school children on their way to school.

The river is itself a busy part of the city in places. Here a collection of work boats busily raising the banks of the river.

The river, even here at 75 miles from the ocean (Gulf of Thailand), is estuarial.  As such, it is subject to the effects of climate change and sea level rise.  The city and national government are making a huge effort to raise the banks along many, many miles of the river.

One of the great sights on the river each morning are the coming and goings of the barge trains, always four barges long.  These barges are empty and sitting high in the water . . . easily managed by a single tug boat on the ebb tide.

Magnificent and powerful: a Chao Phraya River tug boat.

Many fabulous Buddhist wats can be seen on my morning journey.

A loaded barge train passes a giant Buddha statue.  I watched this colossal Buddha being built over the last three years from my seat on the express boat.  It is now finished.  I must make a pilgrimage to this wat soon to pay my respects and make a donation in thanks for the wonderful reminder it provides every morning to make something of my consciousness.

Traditional Thai architecture, old and new.

Another of my dream houses. I've been following its renovation from afar for quite some time.

I pass under four bridges on my way to work.

Further down the river and into fast growing Bangkok, a city of 14 million people . . . and the dusty, smoky air that it creates.

The river tug boats come in many sizes and colors.

These barges, known as rice barges, were made of teak wood in former days.  They are often now converted to self-propelled cabin boats for the tourist trade.

Whenever I see this particular Buddha image I wai and get up and walk to the disembarkation deck of the express boat; my stop is next.

This is where I would normally get off the express boat, at the Rama VII Bridge, and walk the remaining one kilometer to my university job . . . but I am travelling on into the city this morning with a friend to see the Pak Khlong Flower Market.

Down near the touristy part of the city are parked the large restaurant barges that specialize in night dining cruises through the lit city. I've done it.  

Many tourist boats on the lower river . . . but almost no tourists in Thailand today.  I worry for the Thai people who depend on tourist-related income.

We got off the green flag Chao Phraya Express boat near here.  The long-tail boat jockeys maneuvering for a fare.

I miss all of this.  This is my normal . . .

Prapadaeng Island, or more commonly known as 'the Green Lung of Bangkok,' is a large bend in the Chao Phraya River that, despite its close proximity to the city of Bangkok, remains surprisingly a beautiful slice of wild nature . . . mostly as mangrove swamps.

Prapadaeng is not very developed for cars, but is highly developed for bicycle riding on these elevated paths.  Not all the bike paths have these guard rails, some are quite frightening . . . but fun.

Although there are a few small roads, and a few cars around, most of Prapadaeng is still mangrove and palm swamp.

I did not go biking alone, but some of the fun-loving faculty, staff and administrators of the King Mongkut University of Science North Bangkok, where I am currently employed.

Our ride was in three parts, first we rode to a Wat to receive a blessing form the monks.

Our monk blessed us.

The small wat was very pleasant.  The monk on the left held the ancient traditional Buddhist iPhone.

The next leg of our journey was to a wonderful riverside restaurant for a tasty Thai lunch.

The restaurant gate.

We took our lunch out on a sala over the river, but they had an old house section too for eating.

Mick, an English teacher, was happy we were going to eat in the sala.

While we ate we watched several ocean going ships navigate up the river to the Port of Bangkok.

After lunch we literally rode 20 meters to a coffee and dessert shop, Treetops, next door!

The Treehouse is a beautiful place.  We ordered and enjoyed some excellent coffee and an array of desserts.

The Treehouse has several rooms for rent.  It would be nice to stay out there one night.

After lunch, coffee, and dessert, we rode along the river toward the Botanical Garden.

There was some small holding agriculture here and there . .  and the requisite spirit houses too.

Everyone commented about how wonderful it was that such pristine nature was so close to Bangkok.

There were many different kinds of plants in the Botanical Garden. Duh!

At the Botanical Garden, I climbed the observation tower to take some novelty photos . . . and ones of the wonderful nature.

The view from the tower.  Our university van picked us up at the Botanical Garden and took us home.  We had a great day out and about.

Pakkret* (variously Pak Kred or Pak Kret) is a small municipality (population 180,000) in the Thai province of Nonthaburi, 10 miles up the Chao Phayra River from the heart of Bangkok. [* The name Pakkret derives from the Thai, Ban Pak Tret Noi (บ้านปากเตร็ดน้อย), meaning village on the mouth of the lesser bypass.]

Pakkret sits on the east shore of the busy river.  Longtail boats and ferries move people across and around the river banks.

Small government ferries take shoppers headed to the big Pakkret Market . . . for 3 baht (US$0.09).

Many wooden houses on wooden pilings line the river at Pakkret.  Many of these houses sit below the river flood level and the residents vacate their home for 2-3 months of the year.

Shoppers going back across the river.

When I think of Pakkret I think of the river . . . and the two grand markets.

With Chinese New Year just a week away, the Pakkret market has taken on a festive feel.

The Pakkret market is a very visually stimulating place . . . and an olfactory stimulating place.  Wonderful smells.

A Pakkret market fish hawker.

So many still life studies everywhere I looked.

All that great tasting Thai street food has its origins in these 'wet markets.'

I am not even sure know the names of all of these interesting vegetables.  I can't remember ever eating purple green beans . . .

It was a late Saturday afternoon, so it was not a crowded as usual.

What would a Thai market be without the ubiquitous stuff-on-a-stick!

Delicious Jackfruit.

I don't normally take cat photos, but this forlorn market mouser with a recently chewed ear caught my eye.

Food is very inexpensive in Thailand.  Most markets have stalls selling these 'meals in a bag' for commuters.  Just pick one of these up on the way to or from work.

My brother-in-law from Hong Kong, and fellow photo buff, was the excuse to explore the market and riverside attractions.  We found the little Chinese temple sandwiched in an alley.

Chinese Temple detail . . .

In addition to food, the Pakkret market also has sections for [old lady] clothes.

After shopping for your restaurant or market stall, you can hire a motorcycle taxi truck to get your stuff where you want it to go.

Motorized carts for moving produce and products around the market district.

A traditional, and less expensive, means of transportation is the samlor.

The Thai markets are places of constant action and movement.

Outside the market, on the street, are even more edibles . . . steamed dim sum.

I am always amazed at the artistry of Thai artificial flowers!

We wandered around in some alleyways along the river and discovered a Buddhist Temple Supply Shop.

A back alley home cookie factory making traditional Chinese treats.

Somebody's business: crushed ice.

Down along the river . . .

Our late afternoon walk brought us to the riverside . . . and this fantasticly weathered and decaying old wooden house . . .

The high water lines of recent river flooding clearly shown on the old house.

I love the textures of deteriorating wood on old doors and windows.  This particular riverside house had absolutely scrumptious surfaces.

Yes, these are the actual colors . . . fantastic.

I think of the surface variegation on these surfaces as their histories.

This window has everything I want in a photo: dilapidation, corrugation, and decay.

This window and those above are all on the same old wooden house sitting on pilings in the Chao Phraya River.

The Thai-style gabled roof . . . showing the age of this magnificent structure.

Just as we were leaving this beautiful place, the sun came out and shown magic afternoon light on the rotting piers of the old house.

We drove north from our home about 30 minutes to a beautiful riverside restaurant, Baan Ta Nid.  The restaurant is rather hidden on a tiny lane next to this small Chinese temple and a pier for a ferry that does not operate any more.

A sweet little altar . . .

This temple had these 'fortune' sheets.  You roll a die and then choose the corresponding fortune.

Although I did leave a small donation, I did not roll the die and choose a fortune.  Just looking at these two examples, I'm sure glad I didn't roll a 8 . . . the 9 isn't all that bad though.  Imagine basing your life decisions on these!

A very red house next to the pier.

The lane to the ferry pier . . . honoring the departed King.

This is Baan Ta Nid . . . you really have to look to find this wonderful place.

Here we are . . . come on in.

You enter the old wooden Thai-style river house through an open kitchen/lobby.

Wonderful patina on the floor and ceiling planking.

View from the kitchen window out into an older Thai world.

You proceed along wooden planking through an old fashioned Thai house.

The restaurant is through this hall, out back on a pier over the Chao Phraya River.

Baan Ta Nid is also a small 'guest house' with a few small rooms.  This old space serves as the guest lounge.

Such a charming place to relax.

Another lounge and the outside . . .

A second lounge in the old river house.  Thai-style living from early last century.  The proprietress said the house was 90 years old.

A table set for a party of 10 (turned out to be an old Thai rock star and his family).

Many small nooks here and there to sit and enjoy the day.

The dining area on a dock over the river among old Thai village houses.  Very sweet.

A pleasant place for lunch . . . out of the city . . . and into the past.

A private dining sala out over the river.

The food was delicious, beautifully prepared and presented . . . and photogenic, as can be seen!

A little 1/4 inch paint and this could be liveable again . . . I still harbour the desire to live on the river . . . or any river.

The view from an upstairs window: this is Old Thailand . . . just 30 minutes up the river.

One last photo.  A still life of Old Thailand.

It was a beautiful Saturday late afternoon in Bangkok when I went to meet my friend at Wat Arun for some photography and then on to my favorite music venue, Saxophone, for some good live music.

Left to right:  my friend and I at Wat Arun.

Wat Arun is a fantastically ornate temple and chedi complex astride the Chao Phraya River.

Wat Arun had been closed for many months, and shrouded in scaffolding for a major restoration.

There are several temple structures, and several chedis crammed into a big square compound.

The Wat Arun chedis are covered with intricate detail.

When I say covered with intricate detail, I mean intricate detail.

A phantasmagoria of Buddhist imagery.

A massive and decorated chedi.

There are a variety of structures at Wat Arun.

There were quite a few tourists, Thai and foreign, at Wat Arun that afternoon.  These steps were very steep and irregular.

I climbed those steps for this view.

Such powerful visions!

A Yak . . . a monster guard.

As the afternoon light faded into evening, Wat Arun became more interesting.

Bronze Buddhas here and there.

Buddha and chedi at Wat Arun.

Another bronze Buddha on the opposite side from the other one.

Buddha in the golden light of the photographer's magic hour.

Buddha and bikkus.

Buddha Gotama and detailed Wat Arun chedi.

The last of the golden light settling on the Wat Arun chedis.

Some of the disassemble scaffolding from the recent renovation were still to be recovered.

Deeper shadows . . . 6:00pm and the word went out to leave Wat Arun because it was closing time.  Oh no!

I hated to leave Wat Arun as the light was getting better by the second!

Wonderful late light . . . but . . .

A beautiful light fell on this encased Buddha shrine.  We said iur good-byes to Wat Arun and headed out onto the small alleys to find the old Portuguese Cathedral . . .

We found the Portuguese Cathedral along a stretch of river bank.

The last light on the old church front.

There could not be a greater contrast between this (recently restored) church interior and the splendor of Wat Arun only a few hundred meters away.

We walked from the church to the river bank, now alight with tour boats and the shopping plaza on the far bank.

Even at this hour, a troika of tug boats were struggling against the current to move a train of four huge rice barges to their upriver destinations.

Looking up the river, we saw the last colorful light of a marvelous Bangkok sunset.

These sunsets are very fleeting this close to the Equator . . . the sun goes down very fast here.

We were so infatuated with the sunset that we hadn't noticed this amazing old, pre-war teak wood house bathed in the orange glow of the dock lighting.

Only the shadow knows . . . a self portrait.

Beautiful traditional detailing . . .

And, yes, the house is lived in . . .

I could not get enough of this old wooden house . . . it was mesmerizing.  We left to take a taxi across Bangkok to the Saxophone Pub.

There was a very good Thai 'salsa band' playing.

The trumpeter was especially good.

Great jazz chops.

The band sung in Spanish.

The bass player kept the band very tightly together.  We really enjoyed ourselves the entire afternoon and evening.