The Photography of Dr. Jeffrey P. Harper

In late June some of my best good buddies from my old school in Bangkok paid my wife and I a visit in Aberdeen, Scotland.  First we drove down to the hometown of one of them (Liverpool, England) and rendezvoused for a Beatles week-end and combined road trip back north.

Liverpool is famous for many things, but mostly it is known as the home of The Beatles.  Yes, I have to admit it, we took the Magical Mystery Tour bus ride to the famous sights of Beattle lore.  Number 12 here is George Harrison's childhood home.  His family were rather poor.  The bus tour was excellent.  The guide provided great commentary throughout.  Highly recommended.

No Beatles pilgrimage to Liverpool would be complete without a visit to The Cavern Club . . .  the music venue where The Beatles really got their first break as the house band.  It is very touristy now, and the location is under some dispute, but I was impressed.  I bought a mug and t-shirt around the corner (cheaper!).

My Liverpool friend (cranium foreground) is a HUGE Liverpool Football Club fan, as am I . . . so we took an Anfield tour as a part of our double pilgrimage (Beatles and LFC).  He had never been in the team rooms before, and so was moved to near tears at the experience.  Liverpool players touch this door sill as they enter the playing field, er, pitch . . . I think.

Anfield drips with history.

There was much to see in Liverpool.  I loved this stenciled graffiti.

Having a friend in Liverpool is a plus: he knew of the outdoor African Music Festival.  We spent a wonderful day with the festival-goers sitting on the park lawn and dancing about.  This group was from The Congo (DRC), where I spent 10 years of my life.  I pushed myself to the front of the crowd and yelled, "Mbote, O'zali Malamu?" I got a big thumbs up from the singer.  Made my day.

I loved the name of this tattoo shop in Liverpool.

We stayed in a hotel near the Mercy River and the canal boat basin.  The hotel was developed from abandoned 18th century warehouses.

A highlight of the Liverpool visit was the Liverpool Cathedral.

The Liverpool Cathedral is a magnificent structure, of course . . . but on this day the light was magical!!

The stained glass windows on the sunny side pf the cathedral caste a light show of color upon the interior.

Amazing light . . .from above.

We managed to fit in a cut-throat game of Crown Green Bowls or two before leaving Liverpool and the long drive back to Aberdeen.

We provided the usual tour of castles and gardens . . . and rural charm (seen in great detail in may entries to this photo blog).  I never tire of giving tours of our beautiful Aberdeenshire.  Here, on top of Dunnottar Castle in all its summer glory.

A view from one of Dunnottar Castle's windows over the North Sea.

At Crathes Castle I couldn't help taking many flower photos of the extensive gardens.

Castle residents throughout the UK loved to bring plant species from all over the world into their gardens and green houses.

The variety of flowers in the castle gardens is overwhelming!

A castle greenhouse tropical plant.

I do not know what these are called . . . but I want a yard full of them.  Amazing!  We were sorry to see our friends leave, but I know we will reconnect one day, somewhere on this big old planet of ours.

It was a nice Saturday and a time for another road trip south along the coastal highway to a town famous for its smoked fish, smokies - Arbroath.

Picture perfect Arboath harbour on a late April Day. Arbroath dates from the iron age and has played a major role in Scottish history: "On 6 April 1320 the Scottish Parliament met at Arbroath Abbey and addressed to the Pope the Declaration of Arbroath, drafted by the Abbot of the time, Bernard. This document detailed the services which their "lord and sovereign" Robert the Bruce had rendered to Scotland, and affirmed in eloquent terms the independence of the Scots^" 

Wonderful 18th century quay side buildings painted from a colorful pallet.

An Arbroath trawler ready for action.

It was a perfect early Spring day along the northeast coast of Scotland.

As luck would have it, some restored historical fishing vessels were in port for the final day of the Arbroath Harbour Festival.  The Arbroath smokies have been coming from here for centuries.

Festival-goers doing what festival goers do . . .

Festival-goers sauntering and waiting for homemade ice cream.

The Arbroath Harbour Tower was a very photogenic structure.

There was a carnival associated with the festival.  Children, the brave, and the foolish partook of the rides.  Being none of these, we sat and enjoyed the visage of others terrifies, shaken, and stirred . . . and suffocated in clear plastic balls.

This ride we dubbed the Hipster Vomitron 5500.

No, no, no.  Just NO.

Hundreds of feet off the ground.  You cannot see the look of abject terror on these festival-goers faces.

I wasn't sure what you won at this dart toss.

As is our want and habit, we scoured the little town for interesting things to bring back home . . . and eat.  We bought smokies (smoked haddock), scallops, shrimp, and sea bass filets.  We had a great day out and about in Arbroath.

Istanbul!  An amazing city in an amazing setting!

Istanbul is a gigantic city, both in terms of physical size (2,063 sq. mi.) and population (est. 14.2 million).  It is the 5th largest city in the world, and the largest in Europe.

The sea of humanity stretches to the horizon in every direction.  This was our hotel room view.  But, of course, we didn't come to see the city from above . . . we came to get lost in the maze of small streets.

Our hotel was just off Taksim Square, a more or less "central" location with easy walking to most attractions.

Taksin Square leads directly to Istiklal Avenue, a crowded and atmospheric walking street with old trams.

There were always crowds on Istiklal Avenue.

Istanbul is an ancient city, perhaps the longest inhabited city on earth.  There is a wonderfu mix of archectural styes from many eras all mixed togther to good effect.

Remnants of Byzantium mix with modern and Victorian styles.

Turn in what looks like an inviting shop and discover an indoor solarium/galleria with many restaurents.

Many charming old structures telling a story of years of habitation.

Yes, Turkish people eat Turkish Delight . . . so do the tourists.  A major blog entry follows this one with many nice photoraphs of what can be found in Istanbul.  (Go to "Istanbul: Things, Mostly Edible")

Turkish people are very political.  We arrived in the middle of a heated national election.  In fact, our plane departed on election day.  There is often 'trouble' surounding elections.

But it looked like the "Polis" were used to these kind of things and were prepared.  That's a pretty serious anti-riot vehicle there!

Although London claims to have the most security CCTV coverage, Istanbul must be a close second.  There were cameras everywhere!

Of course, walking down the avenue every day we discovered some favorite places to eat.  We had lunch three times at the Konak Kabop House.  Yummie!

The interior of the Konak Kabap House was sumptiously ornate.  Lovely.

We had breakfast and one dinner, and several afternoon coffees at the elegant and trendy The House Cafe, on Ortaköy.  Excellent food and drink and a beautiful atmosphere.  Highly recommended.

The Tram ran down Ortaköy to a part of the city dating from the 5th century, Beyoğlu.

Beyoğlu is a section of Old Istanbul with charming cobbled steep walking streets, small shops, and tons of tourists.  I don't mind tourists:  they are not at home watching TV.  That's good.

Many inviting side streets and alleys led off to adventures . . . untaken.

This photo typifies the archectural wonder of the old Beyoğlu district.

 Istanbul tourist curios was of a pretty high quality generally.

Small Mosques were tucked away here and there. 

The streets around Galata Tower were festooned with political banners and flags.  This part of the city was a Genoese colony for centuries.

The Galata Tower, built as Christea Turris (Tower of Christ) in 1348.  We paid a token fee to take the elevator to the top . . . .

The views of Istanbul from the top of the Galata Tower were magnificent!

Looking across from Galata Tower to the great Mosques of Istanbul.

The square in front of Galata Tower was packed with political banners and flags . . . .

Electioneering everywhere!

Galata Ssuare also had a fine cafe.  We stopped for strong Turkish coffee.

We continued our walk around the charming old Italian quarter.

I would love to have had the time to explore and photograph these side streets . . . like I did so often during my many years in Bangkok.

Also like Bangkok, you could get freshly squeezed fruit juice anywhere you went.  The pomegranet/orange was delicious.

We walked through this part of town many time during the seven days were in Istanbul.

There were always artistic photo opportunities wherever I went.  I have made multiple postings on Istanbul in the following sections on the people and things of Istanbul.

I'm going to have to go back through my photos . . . I think I can put together a study of street lamps from around the world.  Istanbul had some very nice ones.

Not every street was beautiful in Istanbul.

We regularly returned to our hotel near Taksim Square . . . and we were always greeted with this panoramic view of the city from our shoebox room.

The Republic Monument stands in Taksim Square, near ouur hotel.  The monument commemorated the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923.

THE TOURS

Yes, we also took two organized bus tours to get the lay of the land.  It was a good idea: we learned where to come back to and spend more time.

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also called The Blue Mosque, was fantastic!

It was not a very nice day when we visited The Blue Mosque on tour.  It was drizzly.

Although the exterior of this 16th century mosque is certainly impressive, and especially against the grey sky with the siholettes of the denuded trees in he foreground . . . .

The interior of the Blue Mosque may be the most beautiful space I have ever been in.  It certainly rivals St. Pauls Cathedral in The Vatican.

WOW!  Just WOW!

I took many, many photos here . . . and you can see why.  Incredible.

The guide was very gracious and generous with questions about the mosque and Islam in general.  The Blue Mosque is a National Monument and not an every day mosque.  During his explanation of the construction methods used in building the Blue Mosque I looked up . . . .

. . . and WOW!

We exited through a portico which also had a wonderful ceiling.  The entirety of the structure guided your attention and gaze up, to 'the heavens.'

We left the Blue Mosque and walked next door to the Hagia Sophia, the grandest Mosque of all . . . and one of the oldest.  Built as a Greek Orthodox cathedral in 537 (!!), it was the largest building in the world for over 900 years.  It was a cathedral for over 1000 years before being converted into a mosque. More to come on this magnifiscent structure.

One of our tours took us from the 'European' side of Istanbul across the Bosphorus Bridge (built 1973) to the 19th century Beylerbeyi Palace and gardens.  The view of the Bosphorus Bridge from the gardens was magnifiscent.

The Bosphorus Bridge is the 4th longest suspension span in the world.  Yes, that very dark cloud did rain on us!

The Beylerbeyi Palace gardens were interesting too.

Of course no visit to Istanbul would be complete without a visit to the 13th century The Grand Bazaar! With 61 covered streets and 3000 shops, it is a curios and trinket shoppers dream.  Unfortunately it has become primarily a tourist spot . . . with inflated tourist prices.  They would bargain and haggle, but not all that much . . . it was expensive.  Foutunately the hawkers were not too aggressive.

The Grand Bazaar was very atmospheric.

A photographers dream!  I have posted many, many more captures from the Grand Bazaar in the following sections, 'People' and 'Things' of Istanbul.  The origional Shopping Mall!

Perhaps more interesting is the Spice Bazaar (called The Egyptian Spice Market by many locals) located near the New Mosque.

The Spice Bazaar is a living and breathing local market that has been active since 1660. That's 357 years as a spice market!

Tourists and Turks mingled in a free and friendly manner in the Spice Bazaar.  The Turks were a very gracious and helphul people.  Yes, we bought nice things here to bring back to Scotland.  Again, I posted many more photos from the Spice Bazaar in the next sections of this blog.

The neighborhood around the Spice Bazaar was a maze of small lanes crowded with shoppers.  We found a "State Tea Shop" and bought delicious government cost controlled organic Turkish tea . . . cheap! 

The Spice Bazaar was located next to The New Mosque (Yeni Cami). "New" meaning construction began in 1597 and compleeted in 1665!

The New Mosque had some wonderful Islamic Art.

It's a small world after all.  Those Harlem Globtrotters sure get around!  I saw them in San Bernardino, California in 1964.

One of our tours ended high on a hill on the 'Asian' side of Istanbul.  The view was breathtaking.

ISTANBUL BY NIGHT

As the sun set over Istanbul . . . the city became even more exciting and beautiful.

The New Mosque by night.  I was really glad I had my Fuji X-series camera with me.

The Süleymaniye Mosque by night across The Golden Horn waterway.

Although there are bridges from the European to the Asian side of Istanbul, it takes forever and is expensive for commuters.  As a result, millions take ferries to and from their officecs every day.

We loved walking around the waterfront and across the bridges at night.

The views from the 'seafood pier' under the Galata Bridge was special.

Scrumptious reflections.

We never got close to the Bosphorus Bridge at night, but we could see it from  far away.  The lights shifted color very slowly.  Nice.

Fishermen were out until very late at night trying their luck. Most seemed to have pulled up a good catch from the Galata Bridge.

The  view across the Golden Horn up towar Galata Tower from Galata Bridge.

Midnight in Istanbul.

It was always visually interesting to walk around Istanbul by night.

Although it was April, and the nights were a bit chilly, people stayed out quite late.

The immediate neighborhood around our hotel was poorly lit . . . perfect for these night still life portraits.

Tones, textures, light, shadow, color, composition.  Lovely.

Our hotel was down this street at the end, on the left.

In the beautiful existential light, an election draws near.

INVERURIE

Another nice sunny winter Saturday in Scotland.  What to do? Let's go for a drive. We had never taken the 16 miles of road from Aberdeen to Inverurie, so today seemed like a good day to do it.  Inverurie is a 15th century market town that really took off when a canal was dug in the River Don from Aberdeen in 1806.  It has become a comuter town for Aberdunians.

Inverurie has a charming triangular central square dominated by this WW I Memorial to the soldiers from the town who died in the wars of 1914-1918  and 1938-1945.  Lest we forget.

We poked around some shops on the square . . . The Dairy was nice, but the cafe had already sold out the days' meal-of-the-day.  Dang.

It is late enough in the winter for gardeners to start to contemplate taking the risk to-plant-or-not-to-plant.

We walked up the main shopping parade in town and found a nice restaurant and had a fine lunch (I had the Balmoral Chicken - roast chicken stuffed with haggis slathered in peppercorn sauce, Prince Charles' favorite!).

After lunch we walked back to the car, but stopped in a sporting goods and a luggage shop first.

Small, frumpy, Inverurie bar.  We didn't go in.

The road leaving town toward Aberdeen.  Small, clean, charming.

They have a gospel church there too.  I love the winter sky in Scotland.

We said good-bye to Inverurie and were glad we visited.  We want to come back and take some time on the River Walk.

MONTROSE (Angusshire)

 Another nice Saturday, another Saturday Drive, a 20 mile drive . . . this time south down the Coastal Route to an adjoining shire and the port town of Montrose, a somewhat down-at-the-heals village set in the most extraordinary geographic setting between the mouths of the North and South Esk rivers, just in front of a wildlife preserve and estuary. Nice church too.

Church doors have a kind of power . . .

Downtown Montrose shopping district.

A very interesting mix of architecture, unlike Aberdeen.  This looks more Dutch than Scottish.  It was a busy shopping day in Montrose.

Local Hero, Joseph Hume.  He "was commissioned as a surgeon to an Army regiment, and was able to take up work as interpreter and commissary-general due to his knowledge of Indian languages."  Cool!  He learned Hindi, just like me! He was also a poet and radical parliamentarian. Nice to see a statue of such an interesting guy in a small town city square.

What?  A Bakery!  Let's have a look.  Some nice local specialities.  We bought an Apple Tart to eat later [far right - it was only ok].

We also bought a loaf of the Oat Bread [top shelf]: it had a crust as hard as concrete and weighed nearly 30 kilos [an exaggeration].  It was, however, extremely delicious.

The TRUE TEST of modern small town economic development is it's capacity to provide a drinkable double latte.  We found this 15th century vaulted cafe off the main square and administered the aforementioned test.  It passed.  A passable latte . . . although a little weak.

The cafe also had the usual display of what could have been 'home made' chutneys, syrups, compotes, jams, and jellys.  We already have these in excess cluttering our refrigerator.  Nothing new here, keep moving.

Yes, Montrose has a Chinese restaurant just like every single town in Scotland!  My wife had just returned from Hong Kong so was not in the mood to complicate her memories of the gastronomy there.

Another commemorative and honorary statue . . . I didn't catch this fellow's name . . . .

Some dilapidation here and there . . . disappointing.  Time to head out of town, find the port, and on to the estuary.

It was a wonderful day with fantastic winter light.

A view back across Montrose Basin to the old town. "At one time Montrose was Scotland's second largest exporter of salmon; and mussel cultivation gave it the largest mussel beds in the country during the 19th and early 20th centuries."  There is a live webcam of Montrose from across the estuary if you want to see what it looks right now.

Low tide on Montrose Basin . . . . a beached boat.

We pulled into the Montrose Basin Wildlife Reserve to ask what to see in the area.  The map provided the answers . . . go to The Bridge of Dun.

The view from the Reserve's Visitor Center Observation Deck was nice . . . and lined with bird-watchers chatting among themselves.  I heard one say, "Isn't that a ring tail twitter finch, just there?"

The Bridge of Dun is a Category A Listed Building . . . without a Wikipedia page!  I did find this, "Three-arch stone bridge, completed 1787 by Alexander Stevens."[citation] The bridge is said to have been the only way to cross the South Esk River, so the Leard built this elaborate toll bridge to enhance his fame.  My battery died within seconds of taking this photo, so other than iPhone shots, I have nothing to post of St Vie village and beach, where we went next.  We had a great day out.

It was a beautiful Sunday a couple of weeks ago . . . and I didn't want to stay inside an iron clothes, so I drove the mile to the Aberdeen Esplanade.  I wasn't the only person with this idea.

I parked at the far northern end and vowed I would walk all the way to the harbour entry . . . two and a half miles away . . . and back.  There was a steady North Sea breeze, a calm sea, and large rolling waves, some quite large. As it was a Sunday, the horizon was full of offshore oil platform tenders, the trucks of the sea.

I enjoyed capturing the waves crashing on the embankments of the Esplanade. . . it was high tide.

I walked slowly along, camera at the ready.

Some of the waves crashed with a loud THUD.

Although it was sunny, the air temperature was only about 3c (39f), and breezy.  People are passionate about their sports and hobbies like this guy and his sea kayak.

This fellow was quite good at it.  His rides were not long, but he caught a lot of waves.  Fun.

2 1/2 miles up the arc of the Aberdeen Esplanade to the tall harbour control tower was my goal . . . I had never walked the full length before.  There were many people out for a stroll: couples, old people, women walking their dogs, and whole families strolling along the North Sea shore.  After I got up to speed, I left the camera in my backpack  . . .

. . . and only stopped once to take this photo of the lighthouses out at Rattray Head.

The southern end of the Esplanade is at the entry to the medieval fishing village of Footdee, known locally as "Fittie".

Footdee sits directly on the sea, protected by a small-ish sea wall.  I wonder what it is like here at high tide (like today) but with a big storm!

Such a pleasant place.  Old stone terrace houses, short doors, benches, and interesting trinkets in all the windows.

The poured glass window testifies to the age of this old door.

I am forever being surprised by Aberdeen: wonderful new places to visit right here in my new home town. Footdee.  The first mention of Fittie was in 1398.  The current village of Fittie "is a particularly interesting example of a planned housing development purpose-built to re-house Aberdeen's local fishing community. Laid out in 1809 by John Smith, then Superintendent Of The Town's Public Works." [citation]

So sweet.  These little places remind me a great deal of old Danish fishing villages . . . although the Danes would have plastered them and painted them with ox blood.

The sharp angle of the winter sun on this rough stone house created an interesting effect.

I walked back by the same house later as the sun was lower in the sky and the light yellowed from time to time.

In and among the more permanent stone structures of Footdee were these fabulously textured fisherman's sheds.

This weathered green shed caught my eye enough to want to do a study of its incredible surfaces . . . .

A late winter's sun's sheen on an old green fisherman's shed.

Yummie textures, light, shadow, detail, and color.

A nautical decorative feature added by who-knows-who, from who-knows-where, affixed who-knows-when.

I made it all the way to the old harbour tower . . . that had an inscription:

The inscription commemorates the 850 years since the founding, in 1136, of Aberdeen's Harbour Board!  That'd be 878 years this year . . . WOW!

At the Aberdeen Harbour I encountered this screaming fellow waving the Jolly Rogers. I kept my distance; I didn't know if he was protesting the oil company docks nearby, or he was a football (soccer) fan, so I walked back through Footdee toward the Esplanade and the 2 1/2 miles back to my car.

They don't make fishermen's sheds like they used to.  Too bad, as this one was beautiful in its own dilapidated and decaying way.

Corrugation!  I've got corrugation!  One of my favorite photographic subjects is corrugation and sundry things attached to it.  This shed was divine, but the window was worth a closer study.

Astonishing beauty.  I love this dilapidation . . . a picture of history itself . . . the work of time and weather upon a manmade object transits to a work of The Elements.

I left Footdee, a real, living, working, fishermen's village, for the crowds of the Esplanade.  I will be back here again . . . maybe to see if it is possible to rent one of those little sheds . . . I imagined a week-end retreat . . .

I joined the late afternoon throng that had come to look at the North Sea, and then quickly walked the 2 1/2 miles back along the Esplanade to my car.  A great day, yes, a great day.