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Entries in Thailand (82)

Quick Trip To The Gulf of Siam

I made a quick trip to the Gulf of Siam  . . . .  got up early to catch the misty, hot, humid sunrise.

 

The squid boats were coming back in from a night's trawling . . . . picturesquely through the morning golden light.

 

It is the 'hot season' in Thailand . . . and by 6:30am it was already 85f degrees and 85% humidity.  The sky was thick with heat haze already.

 

The tourists, local or foreign, do not come to the beach in March or April; it is just too hot.

 

The number of fishermen seems also to diminish. These underwater sand ripples were fascinating.

 

When it is this hot and humid the air is so thick that sound does not travel very far.  There is an immense silence that falls over the sea.  You can hear neither surf or motor boat.

 

About the only thing you feel like doing in this heat is to languish in the pool . . . but the water was already too warm to enjoy.

Samut Salt Pans Revisited

My friend and photography teacher, Basil, and his wife left Bangkok at 5:15am to reach the salt pans of Samut Songkhram at sunrise to take photos under the magical light of morning. We arrived at 6:30am to a driving tropical thunder and lightning storm. We bided our time taking photos of whatever was lit enough to shoot, like this frangipani flower . . .

 

. . . or this wet red morning flower.

 

The rain finally gave way to moody morning light reflected in the salt pans.  Beautiful.

 

As the sunrise broke through the clouds a light shade of peach started to permeate the landscape.  We got in my truck and raced down the road to see if there might be some salt harvesting between the storms.

 

Indeed!  There was to be salt harvesting to be done . . . . interrupted by the rain.

 

We were in luck: there were cones of salt ready for porterage sitting in the light rain under the peachy morning light.

 

The light did not last long . . . but my-oh-my!

 

As we walked around the sunrise salt pan we noticed a dilapidated bamboo salt shed and went in for a look.

 

A soft, light rain fell on us as we stood transfixed within the beautiful mood invoked by the patterns and the light.

 

Why is dilapidation, a returning back to elemental substances, so beautiful?

 

 Extraordinary textures.

 

The dampness of the morning rain and the soft light made the colors jump into your eye wherever you looked.

 

Basil was in Photographers' Heaven!

 

Cones of salt dissolving in the rain.

 

There had been terrible erosion of the salt cones in the rain.  We spoke to one of the pan workers who said that 50% of the harvest had been lost because of the early rains.  This is suppose to be the hot and dry season, not the rainy season.

 

We came back later in the morning and watched the salt laborers carry the salt out of the pans.

 

Scooping heavy wet salt is hard labor.

 

This crew worked very fast; perhaps they feared a resumption of the erosive rain.

 

The salt pan laborers ranged from the very old . . .

 

. . . to teenagers . . .

 

. . . all in a rush to stack (and cover) the newly harvested salt.

 

It didn't take long for this crew to empty the pan of its salt stacks.

 

We drove around on the small roads between the saalt pans and came upon a salt barge being unloded.

 

Hard physical labor in the stiffling heat and humidity.

 

A timeless scene under a cloudy sky.

We drove around on the farm roads between the salt pans and found an old Wat that was in the middle of a big building project . . . and I do mean BIG.

 

The building project involved putting the oldest wooden Wat on wheels and moving it to a new location.

 

The mundane and the spiritual exist side-by-side in the Wat.

 

Bangkok is a great city in which to live in its own right, but literally an hour from the great city are many marvels of rural life.

 

The old wooden Wat seemed very fragile; I did not go up the ladder to take a look, but Basil did.

 

Where the monks live.

 

The accidental aesthetics of the Wat is always surprising.

 

Although it is a place where the residents do not tend to the physical world, they make a beautiful place . . . perhaps because of it.

 

I love the textures of old spaces.

 

The deities that had been housed in the old wooden Wat had been removed, awaiting their placement in the new Wat under construction nearby.

 

Vestiges of earlier historical influences could be seen in much of the statuary, which were from the Hindu pantheon.

 

At the back of the Wat, in a stand of pine trees, there appeared a collection of very, very old Buddha statues.

 

The Buddhas were covered in a deep layer of pine needles. They looked as if they were emerging from beneath the ground.

 

Some of these Buddhas looked ancient.

 

Other Buddhas still showed remnants of their original coloration and adornment.

 

I could not tell if this collection of Buddhas were abandoned to this part of the Wat, were placed here in temporary storage awaiting the completion of the new Wat structure, or were intended to keep watch over the forest and the chedis that held the ashes of former monks and abbots interned nearby.

 

The forest chedis watched over by the ancient Buddha images.

 

The old chedis still revealed their carved Buddha embellishments.

 

Nearby, next to a stand of bamboo stood a large collection of spirit houses.

 

The tropical pole pine needles coated the spirit houses as well.

 

The pine needles, the stand of wispy trees and the golden spirit houses created a strange mood in the misty morning light.

 

Some spirit houses can be quite whimsical with their family of "inhabitants."

 

In the middle of the grove of spirit houses were the remnants of a blessing ceremony on a white table covered with pine needles.

 

The untended spaces of the Thai Wats allow for a stunning beauty to occur.

 

The monks at this Wat had a marvelous aesthetic sensibility . . . 

 

. . . and a wacky architectural sense of humor! YOU tell me what's going on here!

 

We had had a wonderful day of discovery and wonder . . . and photography.  As we drove home we noticed another crew of salt pan laborers clearing a pan in the distance, so, of course, we drove up a muddy road to take a look . . . .

 

. . . and more photos of this visually interesting process.

 

This second crew also worked at breakneck speed, and had the pan nearly cleared during the time we watched them.

 

It was a memorable day.

Monks, Monks, and More Monks

I woke up at 5:00am this morning to go down to the Central World Mall where an annual gathering of 20,600 monks meditate and pray. An amazing sight.

 

That's a lot of monks right there in the middle of the street.

 

Monk patterns.

 

Old monks, young monks . . . all kinds of monks.

 

A few sleepy monks among the gathered throng(?) . . . what is the unit term for a gathering of monks? Covey? Tribe?  Gaggle?

 

I took a million photos of the monks . . . I was totally engrossed with the visual imagery and the spiritual power of the occasion.

 

It was fantastic to see the part of the city where I go all the time with my wife suddenly be completely full of Buddhist monks.

 

The Abbots from the many Wats (Buddhist temples) filled the front rows.

 

An advertisement for what one might do with one's consciousness while "out of the blue and into the black."

 

One can overlay many layers of meaning onto this gathering of monks. The story I like is that this is a drawing of the spiritual battle lines between a personal and private project to obtain a clear and unattached consciousness versus the crazy desire to have ever more material objects as a symbol of the delusion of meaningfulness.

 

I cannot imagine a better part of town to throw down a karmic antidote.

 

Not everyone is driven by obsessive material attachment: there were many, many pilgrims present to give alms.

 

The devotees left many donations to defray the cost of today's big ceremony. 

 

The 20,600 monks faced the 100,00+ devotees, here to give alms.

 

The occasion is not just a gathering of monks, it is also an opportunity to give the traditional morning alms to the monks, but this time in mass.

 

Families had come very early in the morning to find a place in the alms lines.

 

Monks walking among the gathered followers . . . a beautiful sight.

 

After the morning chant, the monks proceed down the stripped walk to receive alms from the gathered devotees.

 

The monks eventually take their place in front of a family who offers food, candles, and incense.

 

The monks marched down one side to the end, then cam back to other side . . . in a fantastic movement of crisscrossing orange among white.

 

Serious, austere monks among the alms givers.

 

The monks walked under the pedestrian bridge I was on and then down the street where thousands more alms givers waited.

 

The city center had been made over in white, red and orange.  Great spirit.

 

There were monks everywhere in the side streets and in front of the buildings that surrounded the main ceremony.

 

It was a photographers dream . . . . I could not resist these reflected monks!

 

Reflected monks were  Everywhere!

 

An old monk taking care of business in the red chairs.

 

When the last alms had been given, the gathered crowd participated in picking up the cloths and ceremonial accouterments.

 

Everyone pitched in to clear the streets.

 

While the road was being cleared, monks and pilgrims mingled on the street.

 

This kind old monk gave me an Buddhist amulet.

 

The alms were bagged and trucked to various Buddhist temples, there was more than each monk could carry.

 

I met several big time professional photographers while taking photos on the pedestrian bridge; this is Tony B from New York City.  The event attracted photographers from all over the world.

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Out and About in Bangkok One Saturday in February

A nice early hot season day in Bangkok; a Saturday . . . time to go in to Bangkok to give up some blood at Bummrungrad Hospital for my doctor's appointment next week.  I always stand next to this window by the cashier's counter and admired the view . . . today I took a photo.

 

After the blood letting I was out on food in Bangkok.  I noticed my iPhone belt pouch was falling apart so I stopped at a sidewalk seamster's establishment to have it re-sewed.  Very handy.  Cost me 20 baht (US$0.60).

 

Since I had to "fast" before the blood sample, I walked over to La Monita Mexican Grille a few blocks away - starving.  I had never eaten there, but it came highly recommended.  I was very happy with the food (B+) and the incredible colors of the interior (NOT bumped up in PhotoShop!).  WOW!

 

I was running late, so I took a taxi to Siam Square area for my not-so-regular hair cut. Siam Square is across the street from the mammoth Paragon Mall and is a maze of covered alleys filled with interesting little shops.  This is the view from the SkyTrain platform.

 

All along the way, and I do mean all along the way, the temptation of that which is forbidden to cross my lips proliferates beyond imagination and in abundance, and I do mean beyond imagination. Solid sugar constuctions.

 

Inside The Machine.  I left my barber light headed and walked to the MBK Mall to a camera store I knew about.  I have been researching the purchase of a new lens, the Sigma 12-24 II . . . a wide zoom for a full frame camera like my Canon 50D Mark II.  They let me put it on my camera and go out in the mall to test its capabilities.  I took this picture.  I didn't buy it . . . I was not happy with this particular example.

 

In this part of Bangkok (Siam Center), where the SkyTrain runs, they have suspended a wide pedestrian walkway, a promenade, above the famous Bangkok Traffic.

 

People describe the effect as "living in the movie Blade Runner."

 

There is a surreal element about this urban environment.

 

I took a short-cut through several air-conditioned malls and then out on the elevated promenade to the CentralWorld Mall (burned down during "The Troubles" a couple of years ago).  I had to marvel at the amazing contrasts to be found in Bangkok: messy poverty and post-modern grandeur.

 

I checked out the photo stors at CentralWorld mall without seeing anything I liked.  The glitz here is on a monumental scale.

 

There is something very disturbing about naming a department store "Zen" . . . even if it is a Japanese department store.  "Counter-Zen" would be more like it!  In the CentralWorld Mall, Bangkok, February 25, 2012.

 

As the sun was setting over Bangkok, I made my way through a few more interconnected malls to the Intercontenential Hotel where I shagged a taxi home.  It was good "to out amung'em."

Annual Community Service Project in the Bangkok Slums

Every year I take a group of high school students from the International School Bangkok into the slums of Klong Toey in Bangkok, Thailand to carry out a community service project for the Mercy Center Foundation.

 

This year we worked with 3-5 year-old pre-school and kidergarteners.

 

It was a visually, as well as culturally, interesting place.

 

About the only safe way out of the cycle of poverty in this part of Bangkok is to commit to education.  Liking school becomes a necessity.

 

This school is organized as an intervention in the "Eldest Daughter Syndrome," where the oldest daughter quits school at 9 or 10 years of age to take care of the younger children and becomes enmeshed in the cycle of poverty herself.  By providing day schooling for young children, the older girls can finish school and move out of the slum.

 

The school is not without resources, thanks to Father Joe and the Mercy Center Foundation.

 

We brought large boxes of art materials and lesson plans for fun projects.

 

The kids ere very enthralled with the art projects.

 

Some students showed very good art skills.

 

We shared our hope with the young art students.

 

There were many different activities to choose from.

 

The kids were eager to help.

 

Art is not easy.

 

Sometimes an artist just needs to think.

 

In addition to providing a school, materials, and teachers, the mercy Center, through its donors, also provide vitamin fortified milk and a health lunch so the childrens' physical development is assured.

 

The kids loved that milk.

 

The school suddenly became very quiet when the milk was handed out.

 

Not every day is a good day.

 

At the end of the school day mothers, relaties, or neighbors would fetch the children.  This mother brought an especially observant baby.

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