The Photography of Dr. Jeffrey P. Harper

I have three weeks off for Christmas/New Years holiday every year.  Neither of us had ever been to South America, so why not this year.  There are many issues and complications for my wife to get visas in many South American countries, but Argentina was most amenable . . . and number one on my list of places to see was Tierra del Fuego and the high dessert passes of the Andes mountain range . . . Argentina had both!  So we set off from Aberdeen International Airport one cold December morning bound for Buenos Aires, via Frankfurt, Germany! 23 hours later we landed in Argentina!

Our trip plan was to spend equal amounts of time exploring the city of Buenos Aires, experiencing adventures in nature around the Patagonian town of Ushuaia, and the wine producing area around Mendoza, which also served as a gateway to the high Andes.

We arrived late in Buenos Aires and made our way to our boutique hotel in the Palermo district.  It was wonderfully warm in the evening, as Argentina was in their summer months.

The next day was a Sunday, so we took the underground to the famous Sunday Street market.  I loved the street art in Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires is a very colorful city.  Now I know why the police wear the bright orange vests - urban camouflage!

There were many street performers out, like this puppeteer.

The street market was in a part of town that had many antique and knick-knack shops.

This [embossing?] machine was just waiting for a collector.

We spent the next three days exploring the vast city by foot . . . and shopping. I discovered this sculpture 'grave yard' for old statuary . . . and perhaps some new ones.  Very photogenic.  I took many, many photos in Buenos Aires and will, in the near future post the rest of the good ones here.  BE PATIENT!

Ushuaia - The End of The World!

From the lovely warmth of Buenos Aires, we arrived back in the cold again in Ushuaia - fin del mundo.

The views of the southern Andes were breathtaking.

Ushuaia harbour, where cruise ships stop for supplies, and specialized ships depart for Antarctica.  The city of Ushuaia is the furthest south of any city on earth.

The sunsets from our hotel room in Ushuaia were magnificent.

We had several meals of Patagonian King Crab.  Extraordinarily yummy!

It was mid-summer in Ushuaia and the flowers were all in bloom.

The poppies were especially beautiful.

Unfortunately, all the small over night cruise ships to the local glaciers were booked even before we decided to go to Patagonia (we tried to book in September), however, good guide books suggested hiring a taxi for the day in front of the ship passenger terminal, which we did one day.  We went out to the Tierra del Fuego National Park which is adjacent to Ushuaia.  We saw a lot there, and I will post more photos soon.  This is a beaver dam.

One of our days in Ushuaia was wet, so we took a half-day bus tour north up into the southern Andes.  Marvelous views all the way.  We stopped often at all the points of interest.  We were glad we took the tour . . . we saw so much beauty.

We had an excellent and informative bus tour guide.

The bus tour went as far north as Fagnano Lake.

It was hard to believe that this was a lake!  Lake Fagnano is fed by high Andean glaciers which give it the distinctive green color.

We drove back to Ushuaia through the high pass of the south Andes.

The following day we took another tour, this time to a science center that finds and preserves whale bones for display in museums around the world . . . whales that have dies a natural death.  The tour also would take us to see PENGUINS!

It was summer in Patagonia and the place was alive with flowers.  Our penguin expedition  left from an old homestead.

It was a grey and damp day when we headed off to see the penguins.

We took an inflatable boat out to an island  . . . .

The island was full of hundreds of penguins . . . of different varieties.

Our eco guides taught us how to act and react to penguins (move slowly and do not reach out to them or give them anything).

There were penguins everywhere!

Penguins are not shy.  I guess they thought we were just really tall penguins.

There were many pairs of penguins.

Because penguins are not shy, I could go right up to them and take close-up photographs.  Fantastic!

A mother penguin protecting her little gosling.

We returned to Ushuaia after a quick stop at this vintage Patagonian out house.

Patagonia was wonderful, but we said good-bye . . . and flew off to Mendoza in the far airid northwest of Argentina.

MENDOZA

Our time in Mendoza was split in three (3) parts, with a return to the city each evening. 1) The desert road and winding dirt road up the mountains on Argentina Highway 52; 2) The Uco Valley wine growing region an hour out of the city (and a surprise!); and 3) The drive up Argentina Highway 7 to the Chilean boarder through the magnificent high Andes arid pass.

Central Mendoza was a tree-lined and charming old provincial town.

The city is built around Independence Park, where people congregate in the evenings.

As Highway 52 left the city of Mendoza, the houses became older and made of adobe.

A cactus in the sky.

As is often the case in a desert environment, there are different zones created by differences in elevation, moisture, and soil . . each with its own unique flora and fauna:  I passed through a zone of cacti.

Driving through the high desert scrub brush towards the Andes on Highway 52 . . . one of my favorite things to do is drive on small desert roads with the horizon far off at the end of a ribbon . .  and the windows all open with the radio loud.  I hadn't done that in a long tome.  Too long.

Such a lovely place!

A white Catholic altar . . . in the middle of nowhere . . . made it somewhere.

The weather alternated between cloudy with a light sprinkle and bright sunshine.

As I neared the base of the Andean foothills, I came upon a zone inhabited by Alpacas, a relative of the Llama.

The group of Alpacas stopped to check me out.  They are ridiculous with cuteness!

This is what I had come to see . . .

. .  the secret valleys up along the twisting gravel mountain road.  Astonishing!  This is my favorite topology and geography. 

And by 'Twisty Road' I mean very twisty road!

Just me, my rent-a-car, and a winding mountain track.  I loved driving up into the hills on this road.

I ran out of time before I ran out of wonder - I didn't want to drive back in the dark.  The view from the top was vast.

I had to chuckle at this sign . . . . talk about understatement!

I saw one other Alpaca high up on the mountain side.

I got out of the car and took a short walk to a promontory overlooking the big plain, the Pampas, of Argentina.  There were beautiful plants in bloom . . . and hungry wasps.

I took in one last grand view and drove back down the mountain to Mendoza. The next day, New Years Day, we would go to the Uco Valley vineyards.

We got up early, even though we had celebrated New Years Eve at a fun party with a bunch of vacationing Brazilians at the Hilton the night before.  The Uco Valley also had beautiful old adobe vineyard structures.

I love the character, like a face, of old doors and windows,  I was in photographers' heaven with these examples.

Old doors . . . what is the enticement for me?

It was a beautiful day for a drive around the vineyards of Uco Valley.  If you have ever had Argentine wine it probibly came from this valley.

We found a gourmet restaurant out in the vineyards and had a fabulous lunch.  The owner made some nice art with his empty wine bottles.

This old wall, something out of the 19th century, gave me the feeling of an era gone by.

We saw many of these roadside shrines along the hilly road back to Mendoza from the Uco Vally.  They were either 'Lets hope the Virgin Mary can assure good brakes' shrines, or were shrines to someone who lost their life on the highway nearby.  I stopped at a couple of them.  The next day my wonderful wife booked a surprise!!!

The surprise was a day spent at a mountain hot springs spa!  Win Win!

A natural hot spring has fed the spa for over a hundred years.

A little cold glacial water from the river is added to each pool so that they become progressively less hot the further down you go.  You start at the bottom and work your way up until you arrive at the pool that is cooking you.  I got cooked . . . turned lobster red and had to be told to get out and get in the cooling shed!  We spent a wonderfully relaxing day at the spa.  The price included a "buffet lunch" . . . which turned out to be a feast of every kind of food know to mankind . . . from Japanese to Indian, to health food, to Argentine delicacies, all of it delicious.  We stuffed ourselves!

 More to come!

ScotlandIt's always great to get visitors.  In April we had good friends, three couples, visit us from Thailand.  I had a week off, so it was a great opportunity to further explore Scotland . . . and London.

The weather couldn't have been any better: bright, clear, crisp, with fast moving clouds.

It was fun to take our friends to some of our favorite beauty spots.

Of course a distillery tour was on the tour.

It was a scrumptious day for a road trip along the Highlands Malt Whiskey Trail.

We paid took the full tour (with sampling!) of the Royal Lochnagar Distillery . . . that strictly forbade photography.

The old whiskey still itself was a wonder of craftsmanship, detail, color and texture.

The stills were works of art.

The whiskey barrel vault . . . and royal patronage emblem.  This stuff is valuable.

I can confirm the whiskey advertisements . . . whiskey is still made the old fashioned way.

Because of the alcohol vapors present, all electrical switches have to be sealed.  This light switch must have been installed when the distillery was first electrified.

Water, Sparge, Sparge, and Hot Wart.  Of course.

Old brass Victorian-era distillery devices were still in use.  It also supplied a nice opportunity for a novel self-portrait.

Our visitors are whiskey lovers, but didn't like this particular single malt.  We left the beautiful surrounds of the distillery to head further up into the Scottish Highlands.

The Highlands early spring roads are magnificent.

Our next stop was Balmoral Castle, the summer residence of The Queen of England.

The moss and lichens on this stone banister gives you some idea of how wet the highlands can be in the winter.  Lovely textures!

Yes, there really are castles like this in the world . .  that are lived in by real queens.

Balmoral Castle is actually the private property of the Royal Family, unlike all the other Royal residencies which are the property of the State.

Balmoral Castle lies astride the trout and salmon laden upper reaches of the River Dee.

We could have stayed all day taking selfies n front of Balmoral Castle . . . the archetypical royal castle.

The best liquor we had that day was the hooch our van driver Karl shared.

LONDON - The Harry Potter Studio Tour

Yes, we went here.

I confess, I am not a fan of this kind of fantasy literature and/or the cinematic spin-offs they generate.  It's just not my cup of tea.

We flew to London and went directly to the WB Harry Potter Studios . . . I went screaming and kicking, not being a fan of this sort of thing.

But . . . I have to admit that the tour turned out much, much better than I could have hoped.

It turned out to be an actual tour of the actual sets used in the actual movies in the actual studio where it was actually filmed.  My dread was dissolved.

I've only ever seen one of these Harry Potter movies, the first one, and I assumed most of the scenes were computer generated CGI art . . . it wasn't!!!

The detail of the set construction was truly impressive.  They went to a lot of work (and expense!) to create this imaginary world.

The production went to a lot of trouble . . . . including working from detailed architectural drawings, to . . .

. . . to constructing scale models of sets.  The workmanship is excellent.  This is a big production  . . .  unlike my own forays into Hollywood productions.

A fantasy of a fantasy of a fantasy: a post-modern copy of a copy of a copy of an apothecary shop that never was.

The autonomatronic creatures were impressive, as was the workshop where they were made.

Character prosthetics.  I want one for Holloween.

Again, the attention to detail in the costumes was way beyond what I expected.

I posted this one on Facebook as "Inside the Obama fake voter labs" . . . to much Democratic acclaim and vitriol from the ever-present trolls.

The model of the school was 50 feet tall and perfect in detail.

Amazing, just amazing.

The Harry Potter Flying Broom Machine . . . seems like these would be popular at Chucky Cheese at $5.oo a ride.  The background is a green screen (chroma key) used in CGI imagery.

My new computer desktop image.  After an impressive three hours in the studio, all exits funneled us to the vast and expensive GIFT SHOP FROM HELL.  The child-whining there was epic.  And shrill.  And tearful. An 'official' Harry Potter Magic Wand (a stick) was a money-gouging 55 pounds (US$75.oo).  Ouch.  This image is of how hard parents feel it is to get out of the aforementioned Gift Shop From Hell.  Off to London without so much as a key chain fob, such is the strength of my will.

LONDON

An hour drive into central London landed us in beautiful Knightsbridge.  It was a nostalgic journey for me: I lived in London for several years in the late 80s.  As you can see, London is much further south than Aberdeen, and was in full new-growth Springtime.

Ah, London Pubs!

This photo is perhaps more indicative of London's neighborhoods than Big Ben.  London is very multicultural.

London may be the finest tourist city in the world.

Trafalgar Square . . . tourist central.

A must-have-tourist-experience in London.

These acrobatic Swedish tourists put on quite a show for a Japanese tour group.

London is a very open-minded city.

London is such a visually rich city . .  there are literally too many things to photograph . . . that you want to photograph.  I was on sensory overload the whole time.  I wouldn't mind living in London again.

Having good clean fun in London.  It is good to have older sisters.

Yes, we frequented hi-brow cafes and sampled delicious cakes and edible whatnots. I brought my medication.

Where the rich and famous hang out in Knightsbridge.

People say that the food is bad in London.  Not So!!!  We had excellent Korean, Chinese, Thai, Turkish, Lebanese, and Indian food throughout the whole trip.  The aftermath of a great Korean meal near Trafalgar.

I think the real reason our Thai friends wonted to visit London was to take a pilgrimage to Harrods . . . The Temple of Shopping!!!!

 And when I say Harrods is a Temple of Shopping, I MEAN Temple of Shopping. This is the escalator in Harrods Department Store. 

We caught London at the very beginning of the Spring blossoms.  Nice.

London is both an ancient and a modern city . . . but it feels like it is in a human scale . . .

London from the steps of the gallery, Tate Britain.

OK, not entirely on a human scale.  Prince Charles let this thing get by his architectural scrutineering.

I remember lots of parks in London for my daughter to play in when we lived there . . . it's still a pretty good city for children.

I HAD to take this post card shot of Big Ben and the London Eye.

In the  government building section of London there are protests here and there.  I guess this fellow didn't want to wait in the que for a permit . . .

Ah, Knightsbridge squares.

One day we took a drive out into the London suburb of Wimbledon.

No, we did not go to Wimbledon to see the grass tennis courts.

We went to Wimbledon to visit, and to pay respect to, the Thai Wat Buddhapadipa.  We could scarcely believe our eyes!  A perfect Thai Wat "beamed down" to suburban London.  Fantastic!

A Wonderful Thai Temple.  We spent a good long time inside the Wat.  It felt good to be back in a Buddhist space.  I have missed it since moving from Thailand.

The Thai Buddhist spirit was strong in this place.

The interior was a astonishingly beautiful.  I wanted to stay forever . . . a feeling I always have in Buddhist temples.

Yep, you gotta watch out for that pesky Mara . . .  thanks for the reminder, Lord Buddha.

As luck (good and bad) would have it, they were setting up for a Songkran Festival event on the temple grounds.  Unfortunately it didn't fit our schedule.

We were back in London/Knightsbridge by nightfall.  London is fascinating at night. Near our hotel.

Lots of people out and about.

We went everywhere on the Tube. Bayswater Station.

The nearest London Tube stop to our hotel was Glouchester Station.  We took the London Underground a lot.  After a couple of days exploring and shopping London, it was time for another road trip.  The eight of us boarded a van (with a Thai driver!) for a trip to . . .

BRIGHTON BEACH AND THE SOUTH COAST OF ENGLANDIn the van on the way we thought we were going to the White Cliffs of Dover, but they were too far away . . . we settled for equally impressive cliffs nearer to Brighton in East Sussex.  The coastal countryside was gorgeous.

We parked the van and walked abut two miles along an estuary to the sea and cliffs of the Cuckmere Valley.

The gate into the Chyngton Farm trail we took to the cliffs.

The cliffs on a misty day.

It was well worth the long walk to the sea cliffs.  We took about a million photos of each other and then walked back . . . on to Brighton.  We were hungry . . . for fish and chips.

The drive into the old seaside vacation town of Brighton.

It was cold and windy when we reached the Brighton Beach Pier.

A lovely stoney beach and Victorian pier. 

Even though they assured us the Ferris wheel capsules were heated, we did not take them up on their high priced offer of great views.

Mission Accomplished!  Fish and Chips in Brighton . . . and not too bad either.

The Brighton Pier was not as seedy or tawdry as I had hoped.  It was nice . . . and family.

We all had a great time in Scotland, London, and Brighton.  We were sad to see our friends go when we boarded the plane back to our Aberdeen home.

Istanbul!  An amazing city in an amazing setting!

Istanbul is a gigantic city, both in terms of physical size (2,063 sq. mi.) and population (est. 14.2 million).  It is the 5th largest city in the world, and the largest in Europe.

The sea of humanity stretches to the horizon in every direction.  This was our hotel room view.  But, of course, we didn't come to see the city from above . . . we came to get lost in the maze of small streets.

Our hotel was just off Taksim Square, a more or less "central" location with easy walking to most attractions.

Taksin Square leads directly to Istiklal Avenue, a crowded and atmospheric walking street with old trams.

There were always crowds on Istiklal Avenue.

Istanbul is an ancient city, perhaps the longest inhabited city on earth.  There is a wonderfu mix of archectural styes from many eras all mixed togther to good effect.

Remnants of Byzantium mix with modern and Victorian styles.

Turn in what looks like an inviting shop and discover an indoor solarium/galleria with many restaurents.

Many charming old structures telling a story of years of habitation.

Yes, Turkish people eat Turkish Delight . . . so do the tourists.  A major blog entry follows this one with many nice photoraphs of what can be found in Istanbul.  (Go to "Istanbul: Things, Mostly Edible")

Turkish people are very political.  We arrived in the middle of a heated national election.  In fact, our plane departed on election day.  There is often 'trouble' surounding elections.

But it looked like the "Polis" were used to these kind of things and were prepared.  That's a pretty serious anti-riot vehicle there!

Although London claims to have the most security CCTV coverage, Istanbul must be a close second.  There were cameras everywhere!

Of course, walking down the avenue every day we discovered some favorite places to eat.  We had lunch three times at the Konak Kabop House.  Yummie!

The interior of the Konak Kabap House was sumptiously ornate.  Lovely.

We had breakfast and one dinner, and several afternoon coffees at the elegant and trendy The House Cafe, on Ortaköy.  Excellent food and drink and a beautiful atmosphere.  Highly recommended.

The Tram ran down Ortaköy to a part of the city dating from the 5th century, Beyoğlu.

Beyoğlu is a section of Old Istanbul with charming cobbled steep walking streets, small shops, and tons of tourists.  I don't mind tourists:  they are not at home watching TV.  That's good.

Many inviting side streets and alleys led off to adventures . . . untaken.

This photo typifies the archectural wonder of the old Beyoğlu district.

 Istanbul tourist curios was of a pretty high quality generally.

Small Mosques were tucked away here and there. 

The streets around Galata Tower were festooned with political banners and flags.  This part of the city was a Genoese colony for centuries.

The Galata Tower, built as Christea Turris (Tower of Christ) in 1348.  We paid a token fee to take the elevator to the top . . . .

The views of Istanbul from the top of the Galata Tower were magnificent!

Looking across from Galata Tower to the great Mosques of Istanbul.

The square in front of Galata Tower was packed with political banners and flags . . . .

Electioneering everywhere!

Galata Ssuare also had a fine cafe.  We stopped for strong Turkish coffee.

We continued our walk around the charming old Italian quarter.

I would love to have had the time to explore and photograph these side streets . . . like I did so often during my many years in Bangkok.

Also like Bangkok, you could get freshly squeezed fruit juice anywhere you went.  The pomegranet/orange was delicious.

We walked through this part of town many time during the seven days were in Istanbul.

There were always artistic photo opportunities wherever I went.  I have made multiple postings on Istanbul in the following sections on the people and things of Istanbul.

I'm going to have to go back through my photos . . . I think I can put together a study of street lamps from around the world.  Istanbul had some very nice ones.

Not every street was beautiful in Istanbul.

We regularly returned to our hotel near Taksim Square . . . and we were always greeted with this panoramic view of the city from our shoebox room.

The Republic Monument stands in Taksim Square, near ouur hotel.  The monument commemorated the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923.

THE TOURS

Yes, we also took two organized bus tours to get the lay of the land.  It was a good idea: we learned where to come back to and spend more time.

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also called The Blue Mosque, was fantastic!

It was not a very nice day when we visited The Blue Mosque on tour.  It was drizzly.

Although the exterior of this 16th century mosque is certainly impressive, and especially against the grey sky with the siholettes of the denuded trees in he foreground . . . .

The interior of the Blue Mosque may be the most beautiful space I have ever been in.  It certainly rivals St. Pauls Cathedral in The Vatican.

WOW!  Just WOW!

I took many, many photos here . . . and you can see why.  Incredible.

The guide was very gracious and generous with questions about the mosque and Islam in general.  The Blue Mosque is a National Monument and not an every day mosque.  During his explanation of the construction methods used in building the Blue Mosque I looked up . . . .

. . . and WOW!

We exited through a portico which also had a wonderful ceiling.  The entirety of the structure guided your attention and gaze up, to 'the heavens.'

We left the Blue Mosque and walked next door to the Hagia Sophia, the grandest Mosque of all . . . and one of the oldest.  Built as a Greek Orthodox cathedral in 537 (!!), it was the largest building in the world for over 900 years.  It was a cathedral for over 1000 years before being converted into a mosque. More to come on this magnifiscent structure.

One of our tours took us from the 'European' side of Istanbul across the Bosphorus Bridge (built 1973) to the 19th century Beylerbeyi Palace and gardens.  The view of the Bosphorus Bridge from the gardens was magnifiscent.

The Bosphorus Bridge is the 4th longest suspension span in the world.  Yes, that very dark cloud did rain on us!

The Beylerbeyi Palace gardens were interesting too.

Of course no visit to Istanbul would be complete without a visit to the 13th century The Grand Bazaar! With 61 covered streets and 3000 shops, it is a curios and trinket shoppers dream.  Unfortunately it has become primarily a tourist spot . . . with inflated tourist prices.  They would bargain and haggle, but not all that much . . . it was expensive.  Foutunately the hawkers were not too aggressive.

The Grand Bazaar was very atmospheric.

A photographers dream!  I have posted many, many more captures from the Grand Bazaar in the following sections, 'People' and 'Things' of Istanbul.  The origional Shopping Mall!

Perhaps more interesting is the Spice Bazaar (called The Egyptian Spice Market by many locals) located near the New Mosque.

The Spice Bazaar is a living and breathing local market that has been active since 1660. That's 357 years as a spice market!

Tourists and Turks mingled in a free and friendly manner in the Spice Bazaar.  The Turks were a very gracious and helphul people.  Yes, we bought nice things here to bring back to Scotland.  Again, I posted many more photos from the Spice Bazaar in the next sections of this blog.

The neighborhood around the Spice Bazaar was a maze of small lanes crowded with shoppers.  We found a "State Tea Shop" and bought delicious government cost controlled organic Turkish tea . . . cheap! 

The Spice Bazaar was located next to The New Mosque (Yeni Cami). "New" meaning construction began in 1597 and compleeted in 1665!

The New Mosque had some wonderful Islamic Art.

It's a small world after all.  Those Harlem Globtrotters sure get around!  I saw them in San Bernardino, California in 1964.

One of our tours ended high on a hill on the 'Asian' side of Istanbul.  The view was breathtaking.

ISTANBUL BY NIGHT

As the sun set over Istanbul . . . the city became even more exciting and beautiful.

The New Mosque by night.  I was really glad I had my Fuji X-series camera with me.

The Süleymaniye Mosque by night across The Golden Horn waterway.

Although there are bridges from the European to the Asian side of Istanbul, it takes forever and is expensive for commuters.  As a result, millions take ferries to and from their officecs every day.

We loved walking around the waterfront and across the bridges at night.

The views from the 'seafood pier' under the Galata Bridge was special.

Scrumptious reflections.

We never got close to the Bosphorus Bridge at night, but we could see it from  far away.  The lights shifted color very slowly.  Nice.

Fishermen were out until very late at night trying their luck. Most seemed to have pulled up a good catch from the Galata Bridge.

The  view across the Golden Horn up towar Galata Tower from Galata Bridge.

Midnight in Istanbul.

It was always visually interesting to walk around Istanbul by night.

Although it was April, and the nights were a bit chilly, people stayed out quite late.

The immediate neighborhood around our hotel was poorly lit . . . perfect for these night still life portraits.

Tones, textures, light, shadow, color, composition.  Lovely.

Our hotel was down this street at the end, on the left.

In the beautiful existential light, an election draws near.

Istanbul has lots of people, 14 million of them in Istanbul proper, with many million more in the adjacent suburbs and towns.  Everybody has to make a living one way or another.

14 million people means a lot of customers . . . customers for everything, like made-on-the-spot candy.

Street clam hawker.  It's a way to live.

There are literally millions of shopkeepers in Istanbul, but not all as friendly and positive as this spice shop worker.  A nice guy.

This tiny pastry shop was on the corner near our hotel.  We stopped there on our way back to our room every day . . . and the pastry guy remembered our favorite.

There is a row of men's clothing shops near the Egyptian Spice Market.  I bought three pairs of corduroy pants and a hat from this very helpful clothier.

We were told that there weren't many tourists, and those who were in Turkey weren't spending much.  What to do?  Enjoy each others' company in the Grand Bazaar.

The "staff" at the Grand Bazaar were all very hungry . . . for money.  I can't blame them, the overhead must be steep.  This Harim supply stall was vacant.  I guess the women's movement hasn't helped sales any.

We bought some scarves and a table cloth in The Grand Bazaar, but, sadly, not from this guy.

The curios hawkers weren't doing any better.  Time to play with the new stock.

A fellow browser in the Grand Bazaar.  O, what to buy?

The nut, dried fruit, and Turkish Delight vendors were doing alright. Imagine this is your place of employment . . . every day of your life!

This happy gentleman provided excellent service.  We bought nuts, stuffed figs, and spices from him at the Egyptian Spice market.

For some reason this Spice Market photo reminds me of Singapore, "You buy, or not?"

I spoke to the owner of this stall in the Egyptian Spice market . . . he said the exactitude of the spice display meant everything for sales.  He said his family had occupied this stall since 1660. 354 years of straightening spice piles.

The guy in the mirror followed us everywhere.

We walked everywhere from our Taksim Square location.  I enjoyed talking to the Turks and taking their photos, when allowed.

There were throngs of people on Istiklal Avenue, a main shopping street.  There were also a number of buskers and beggars too.

 Istiklal Avenue was a lively place full of warm humanity. A Turkish Huck Finn.

The Byzantines hired Viking mercenaries (a big mistake) . . . and it seems there are still a few around.  For a rough and tough Viking he is very careful with that cup of hot coffee.  NO, I can't explain it. Taken near Beyogiu.

This old fellow had seen his fair share of this and that.  Wonderful face.

Modern Turkish people, more or less.

We left on an election day . . . so the city was full of e electioneering posters and banners and flags.

Yesterday's politician.

We were going to see the Grand Palace, but the line was around the block.  Good thing too; we were able to spend the morning in the adjacent Guihane Park.  I saw this woman take this photo and went right over and took the same photo.

It was a beautiful day so there were many families in the park.

It was also a good day for a school trip to the park.  Sweet.

This neo-hippy street band was really good.  However, the guitar player became enraged that the old street person decided to join in on his penny whistle.  He got up and went over and confronted the old man.  A very violent scene  ensued with the hippie pushing the old man around while the crowd took sides.  It went from sweet odes to nature, to a classless demonstration of elitism.  Disappointing.

There were many street buskers around.  They were happy for me to take their photo once I had thrown some change in the case.

This man plays very sweetly.

I saw this young busker on several occasions, in different parts of town.

I gave her a good tip and she let me click away.

Not the best way to make a living in a big city.

There's that guy again.  Still following me.

We did not meet the complete cross section of Turkish society.  Mostly we met merchants and people engaged in food preparation and service . .  like this flatbread maker.  They had her working in the front window of a traditional Turkish restaurant . . . I guess to prove authenticity!

Another shop window bakery worker.

Of course, we frequented the kabob joints.  This was our favorite, The Konak Kabob . . . we went back several times.  Always delicious.

It was a very busy place.  They were hard working slicing and preparing the shawarma.

The Executive Chef, Mitat Oz, at the Konak Kabob was a real showman.

Mitat happily obliged to be photographed.

An apprentice shawarma assembler at the Konak Kabob.

Day turned to night . . . the street vendors were always there.  I had to walk by this guy twice a day . . . he was a hard sell.  I overpaid for some oranges one day.

The shawarma slicers were out at night too.

Midnight chicken shawarma!  Yum-yum!

A young Turkish couple out on a date.  While my wife took a photo with their iPhone, I snapped this sweet shot.

I, for one, would NOT name my night club The Crab Bar.  I would also get rid of the lurker outside the door.

OK . . . I like the effect.  People were out at all hours, even though nit became quite chilly at night in late March.

Such a sad and forlorn sight this political poster made after midnight in the orange light.  But the corrugation made me happy.

The markets, shops, and bazaars of Istanbul are full of a kaleidoscopic array of things . . . lots of things . . . like these wonderful tea sets.  We bought that very purple-tasseled one right there.

Beautiful things: Turkish tea sets.

We spent seven days in Istanbul, and I believe we spent half of our time snooping in shops and market stalls.

There were myriad things to look at, buy, and of course, photograph.

Lamps, lamps, lamps.  These shops made us continually recalculate our baggage weight!  Should we buy, or not.  We didn't get any of these . . . this time.

There were some very interesting shops in Istanbul . . . like this quill pen shop.  You don't see these too much any more.

They have nice soap in Istanbul.

Very nice, and aromatic, soap.  We bought several different scented bars.

Woven and knitted things outside The Grand Bazaar.

A Turkish flag hawker hidden in his wares.

There was no shortage of trinkets at the trinket shops.  These are made for tourists, although I saw plenty of Turks purchasing these trinkets too. An exploitation of cultural iconography.

Traditional Turkish blue glass 'evil eye' bobbles were everywhere in Istanbul.

The trinket shops were interesting, but the GOLD SHOPS were, well, dripping in gold like some potentate's secret treasure room!

The variety of things for sale in the bazaars was incalculable.

15th century Head Shop! Also the only merchant using white light to show his wares . . . they stood out like a fire in the night.

Need to dress your harem dancers?  No problem, there's a shop for that.

We spent some time perusing the fabric shops.  We brought home a nice tablecloth for the kitchen table.

I bought the Black Harley-Davidson Istanbul t-shirt here.  Cool.

It was the spice shops, and The Egyptian Spice Market of Istanbul, that really had fascinating 'things' . . . .

Spice shop array.

The Egyptian Spice Market of Istanbul (Mısır Çarşısı), selling spices, nuts, potions, teas, powders, and dried everything since 1660.  Amazing.

I spoke to the owner of this shop who said his family has held this exact location in The Spice Market since 1660, 355 years!

Dried fruits, some stuffed with nuts (my favorite), and mountains of nuts (my favorite) we fantastic!  We brought back a niece selection of these.

Figs stuffed with walnuts . . . I cannot imagine anything better to eat on this planet . . . OK . . . maybe durian or mango and sticky rice . . . but these are right up there!

I took way too many walnut stuffed fig photos.  These are but a few of the really good ones.  Notice the walnut stuffed dates nearby: also yummie.

These walnut stuffed dried apricots were also marvelous.  The snackage here was astonishing!

A strange twist:  right in the middle of the spice market was what looked like a wedding dress shop.  Complete incongruity!  A strange dream.

Nuts and dried apricots, dates, and figs.  Wow.  Just WOW.  These constitute 74% of my normal, everyday snackage.

The displays in The Spice Market were works of edible Art.

Dried whatnot . . . perhaps some kind of flower petal for tea-making.

Olives!  The Olives . . . . were . . . to . . . . DIE    for!

Fancy some tea?  The tea stalls were fantastic and brought about thoughts of ancient ships bringing these, and the spices, to Istanbul markets for further distribution throughout Europe.

Beautiful sage tea.  The color!!!

There were candies of every imaginable hue in the Bazaars, but it was the Turkish Delight shops and stalls that had the corner on satisfying the globe's sweet tooth.

Enjoy this slide show of the edible things of Istanbul!

If I take a lot of diabetes medication, I can get away with trying a little square of Turkish Delight once a day.  And did.

At a Turkish Delight shop on a cloudy day in Istanbul.

Each of these different types of Delight are ridiculously delicious.  The slice off a piece any size you want.  Nice.

The Delight shops were every five or six shops apart . . . calling out to you to submit yourself to a diabetic collapse.

As it turns out, there are all kinds of delights in a Turkish Delight shop. Some sell good coffee and baked baklava-like things . . . crazy sweet with honey.

These will kill you with sweetness.

Every 50 meters there is a shop like this with stacks of baked and assembled and rolled, and coated delights.

Baklava-ish temptations.  They know how to make desserts in Istanbul, that's for sure.

A stack of pistachio-filled baklava rolls.  Oh My God!

I got a headache just looking at these.

If there wasn't enough honey IN YOUR Baklava, you could buy more and spread it on yourself!  Incredible.

We were very happy when we found the fresh fruit stands and shops.  Pomegranate and orange juice is very thirst quenching . . . .

. . . especially after a really good Turkish pizza(!) made with twisted cheese:

Twisted Turkish cheese.  Mighty fine.

Turkish Efes beer is not too bad.  Not bad at all.